【京友禅:安藤染工】友禅で描く未来図

[Kyoto Yuzen: Ando Senko] A vision of the future drawn with Yuzen

A little west of the center of Kyoto City is an area called Saiin.

It is now a quiet residential area, but during the Showa era it was a major kimono production area with many dyeing and weaving companies.

This time we spoke with Ando Dyeing, a company that has been producing furisode and ceremonial kimonos using the kata-yuzen technique in this area for many years.

Let me give you a brief history of Yuzen.

Yuzen is a dyeing technique that originated in Kyoto during the Edo period.

Characterized by intricate patterns and vibrant colors, it is called "Yuzen dyeing" after the fan painter Miyazaki Yuzen, who is said to have established this technique.

For a long time, it developed as a hand-painted dyeing and weaving technique, but in the Meiji period, the technique of "kata-yuzen," which uses stencils for dyeing, was established and it spread to become familiar to many people.

*Examples of works

Ando Senko has inherited the techniques of Kata-Yuzen and produces textiles in a style known as Itaba-Yuzen.

The dyeing is done using an airbrush or other tool on a board that is sized to fit the width of the fabric, and it is a delicate process that does not allow for even the slightest deviation.

It is truly a world of craftsmanship that requires split-second concentration and precise technique.

The company's representative, Mitsuyasu Ando, is a passionate man who wants to "make good things" and "preserve Yuzen for the future."

In addition to furisode and ceremonial wear, the company is also actively working on product development to make the charm of Yuzen more accessible.

In recent years, they have also been working on new products that are easy to incorporate into everyday life, such as goshuincho (temple stamp notebooks) and PC cases, and you can see their ingenuity in adapting traditional crafts to modern life everywhere.

Also, during the interview, I was very impressed by what one of the craftsmen said.

"I'm always mindful of market needs. People tend to think that our industry is relatively stable, but trends do come and go. It's important to be able to recognize the signs of those changes."

It may seem obvious, but it is actually a very essential phrase.

I felt that it is this accumulation of "the ability to read a little ahead of the times" that shapes tradition.

*Colored starch used in dyeing and weaving

Ando says, "It's important not only to preserve traditions, but also to keep them alive."

As craftsmen age and there is a shortage of successors, how can we pass on our skills and techniques to the next generation?

He is facing that question head-on.

"We want what we've done to be something that the next generation will want to try," he said, his voice exuding passion and kindness.

*Some of the dyes and patterns used

We explore new paths while respecting the paths walked by our predecessors.

It was a day that made me realize that this attitude is what will connect culture to the future.

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