[Interview with Kyoto Indigo Dyeing Master Riku Matsuzaki] Fascinated by Indigo
Share
-----First, please tell us what Kyoto indigo dyeing is.
"Japan's indigo industry began in Kyoto.
However, about 100 years ago, the fields were lost due to the rise of chemical dyes and urbanization, and indigo in Kyoto disappeared.
I revived that Kyoai.
When I learned that my hometown was once a production area, I couldn't just ignore the history.
The indigo is cultivated by hand.
Of course, we don't use pesticides.
This is why we can produce truly pure indigo dye without using any chemicals."

-----I'm surprised to learn that you start by growing indigo itself. When did you first encounter indigo dyeing?
"After graduating from university, I moved to New York without being able to speak English, wanting to be exposed to different values.
There, I happened to walk into a store and learned about an indigo dye called "Japan Blue."
After returning to Japan, I saw a special feature on indigo dyeing on TV and thought, "That looks interesting, I'd like to try it."
He then became an apprentice at a dyeing and weaving studio in Kyoto that had been in business for 200 years.
However, the condition for becoming an apprentice is to train in Ehime for two years.
In Ehime, people raised silkworms and sewed kimonos, so they had no access to indigo.
I thought I would finally be able to study after returning to Kyoto, but I still wasn't allowed to touch it (laughs).
Unlike other dyes, indigo is special.
This is because indigo cannot be dyed unless it is fermented by microorganisms, so amateurs should not touch it or change the environment.
If fermentation stops, work will stop.

I understood that, but I couldn't wait any longer, so I put a bucket in my bathroom and started researching it myself (lol).
At first, I just kept failing.
I spent half my salary on it and things didn't go well for about six months.
One day, while living like this, the surface of the water turned blue and I was able to dye some fabric.
I still can't forget the excitement I felt at that time."

-----This story really made me realize how difficult indigo is. I never imagined you would research it at home. Is there anything about indigo that you are particularly particular about?
"I'm just particular about it (laughs)
We take great care with everything from cultivation methods to each and every technique.
The reason I'm so particular about this is because I've had the experience of seeing the real thing.
In the Shosoin Repository in Nara, there is still an indigo-dyed cord from 1,300 years ago.
I think this is proof that the technology of the Nara period is superior to that of modern times.
Therefore, if we go back to past technologies, we should be able to create something that will last for over 1,000 years.
We have finally been able to trace the techniques back to the Muromachi period, about 700 years ago.
I feel like we are gradually getting closer to the technology of the Nara period."

-----That's truly learning from the past. Where do you get your inspiration for your work?
"My inspiration always comes from indigo.
The appearance of the indigo changes from day to day, and the activity of microorganisms is reflected in the color.
The indigo vat, where many microorganisms coexist, looks like the Earth seen from space.
I feel that "everything is one."
I express that image in my work."

Part 2 will be released tomorrow.